*PICTURED: Aoibh & Dylan enjoying the view from our hotel room balcony at the Hotel Carlton Pestana in Funchal
WHEN planning a summer holiday for a young family, it can be difficult to strike the right balance.
Many opt for the convenience of a Center Parks or Eurocamps. My two children are aged four and seven and I’ve failed to truly enjoy a family holiday in recent years – falling into that trap of seven days of non-stop poolside vigilance (if you know, you know). I was sceptical that this year would be any different – I was gladly mistaken.
A visit to arguably the most picturesque seaside destination on our doorstep – often referred to as the Hawaii of Europe – Madeira offered the perfect balance of family fun, culture, relaxation and jaw-dropping scenery.
The island famous for Cristiano Ronaldo is now a year-round fixture from Shannon Airport (twice weekly), so the opportunity to be in a subtropical paradise off the coast of Africa in little more than three hours is worth considering.
Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal, is smaller in area than County Louth. However, its highest peak stands at over 6,000ft – that’s almost twice the height of Carrauntoohil. The volcanic island is packed with lush forest and mountains which means there are stunning hikes aplenty if you happen to be holidaying without any children. Such is the scale of the mountains, a unique road network has been constructed to navigate this and there are more than 150 tunnels that cut the mountains of Madeira Island to help shorten travel times. To see the island in all its glory, car rental is vital.
The Sunday flight from Shannon Airport arrives at Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport at around midnight so we landed in Madeira under a blanket of darkness. What greeted us when we opened our curtains the next morning was a seemingly never-ending, panoramic Atlantic view. Here is a blow-by-blow account of our top tips and favourite moments from a week in Madeira.
CAR RENTAL
As I mentioned, car rental is vital. AB4Rent is not located in the airport which sounds like hassle but is the complete opposite. Upon arrival, we were collected by Henrique who drove us to AB4Rent (https://www.ab4rent.com/) just a few minutes up the road and away from the airport, where we were handed the keys to our Opel Mokka and booster seats were fitted with minimum fuss.
HOTEL
For many families, a week in a five-star hotel isn’t in the budget however there’s great value to be found at the Pestana Carlton in Madeira (https://www.pestana.com/en/hotel/pestana-carlton-madeira). If your budget can stretch to a seaside view, it’s an unforgettable bonus to wake up to expansive views every morning overlooking the Bay of Funchal.
This large hotel (set over 17 floors) has a good all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast with fresh pastries and omelettes made to order – try avoid peak times as it does get busy. There are four restaurants and two bars on site. We didn’t dine in any night as there are so many options in Funchal but when you have a four-year old in tow, it’s comforting to know that the option exists if the little ones get tired after a long day.
Our favourite features of the hotel were the two huge, outdoor saltwater pools (with a well-shaded kids pool), a heated indoor pool and the direct access to the Atlantic for the sea swimmers amongst us.
There was live music at night in the adjoining bar and for daytime entertainment other than the pool, there’s also mini-golf which is fine to kill an hour with the little ones. It’s worth noting that there’s no kids club so those of us who want to completely free yourself of parenting responsibilities, it may not be the best option.
We were there during the Madeira Atlantic Festival in June, a “vibrant celebration of the island’s culture” which culminated in an enormous fireworks display on the ocean which was visible from the hotel’s outdoor bar.
WHAT WE DID – FAMILY
As I mentioned earlier, Madeira is a small island so everything is easily accessible as part of a day trip. Here are a couple of day excursions we took. After our excursions we generally had time to spend an hour or two at the hotel pools so it was a good mix of action and relaxation.
Day 1
Bird Island (https://www.ilhadasaves.com/) & Madeira Banana Museum (https://bam-centrodabananadamadeira.pt/en/)
Bird Island is a unique park and mini zoo that is set in a charming green garden. I’m not typically a zoo person but this was a relaxing way to ease into the holiday. The sanctuary is in a very quiet corner of the island and the kids will be entertained.
Later that afternoon we were given a guided tour of the Madeira Banana Museum, which ends in an interactive audio-visual film about the importance of the banana industry to Madeira. There’s a guest appearance from CR7’s mother Maria Dolores who proudly states that bananas are Madeira’s second greatest export. There is a shop on site with banana-based treats and drinks available.
Day 2
Cable Car to Monte (https://madeiracablecar.com/en/) & Visit to Monte Palace Tropical Garden (https://montepalacemadeira.com/)
This is a must-do when visiting Madeira. The cable car from Funchal Port is €20 per adult and children under 6 go free. Each cable car can bring 6-8 people at a time and they are suspended about 200 feet in the air as they slowly transport you up to the Palace Gardens which are about 1,800 feet above sea level. It’s a nice way to travel but might be slightly uncomfortable for those afraid of heights.
The Monte Palace Tropical Garden is like being transported to a tropical paradise. Stretching to an area of 70,000 m2, the UNESCO world heritage site contains one of the largest collections of cycads of African and Japanese origin, while there are permanent exhibitions in the palace museum. A word of warning, there is a cart selling pineapple juice and pina coladas on site: prices are not displayed but it is pretty extortionate.
Day 3
Madeira Theme Park (https://www.parquetematicodamadeira.pt/) & Porto Moniz natural pools
A road trip that cuts through the centre of the island and brings you north is probably the most memorable day on our trip, purely for the views alone. You’ll have a stiff neck from looking up at the mountains every time you emerge from a tunnel. The coastal views on the north of the island are like a mix between the Cliffs of Moher and the Ring of Kerry.
The Madeira Theme Park, our first stop, is Madeira’s answer to Bunratty Folk Park. It’s a curious mixture of children’s activities and history. Some features include rowing boats, a farm park, gardens, a huge playground, a kids fun train, and a miniature village featuring typical Santana houses (from that region). Tickets are very affordable and it’s a worthwhile pitstop on a road trip along the north of the island.
After a picnic at the theme park we headed west and stopped at Restaurante São Cristóvão which is arguably the best viewpoint in the island. If you’re with a designated driver, a poncha – a local rum-based orange drink – is a nice companion when enjoying this incredible view. 
We continued west along the north coast to Porto Moniz natural pools. There are no sandy beaches in Madeira and these natural pools are a wonderful alternative with diving boards, lifeguards and deep seasalt pools carved into the ocean’s edge. A nominal entry fee is well worth it as the facilities on site are excellent. Make sure to pack hats and plenty of suncream as there is not much protection from the shade here.
Day 4
Day out in Funchal – farmer’s market & 3D Fun Art Museum (https://3dfunartfunchal.com/)
Funchal itself is a very walkable city centre, with a few centre points such as a seafront, a park in the centre and a picturesque pedestrian street filled with bakeries, cafes and restaurants. The city is bustling but doesn’t move at a fast pace and feels very safe for young children.
The Farmer’s Market is akin to the Milk Market in Limerick where vendors will eagerly share samples of exotic fruits. It’s an atmospheric spot surrounded by cafes and shops – there’s a lovely little café called Uaucacau with impeccably finished chocolates that’s well worth a visit. Word of warning, make sure to ask about the price of every piece of fruit you intend to purchase, they can be very expensive. We were sold a locally grown fruit called monstera, and unfortunately it wasn’t fully ripe which causes a stinging sensation in the mouth.
We followed this up with a visit to the 3D Fun Art Museum (https://3dfunartfunchal.com/), which is withing walking distance of the market. It’s an immersive experience where you take photographs alongside 3D art displays to create a ‘live’ action photograph. If you visited Madeira on a particularly rainy week, this would be a fine way to kill a couple of hours.
EATING
Overall, you can’t go too far wrong with food in Madeira. Prices are generally a bit cheaper than the Algarve in my experience and there’s a very wide variety of cuisine to suit all tastes.
For an authentic local eating experience, Casal da Penha offers a variety of meat and fish dishes. It was our favourite restaurant and we would have visited again but it was unfortunately booked out so booking ahead is advisable.
If you want a family friendly restaurant near the hotel, Stella D’oro is primarily a pizza and pasta restaurant but there’s a huge menu beyond this. It’s friendly, very accessible and offers great variety for the kids.
I have nothing but positive things to say about Madeira as a summer destination for families. We all know how easy flying from Shannon is.
As I mentioned earlier, there are no shortage of reminders in Madeira that it’s the homeland of Cristiano Ronaldo. But from now on, the thought will barely cross my mind – on the list of highlights, it’s well down the list. When someone asks me about the island of Madeira, all I will think is, ‘you have to visit’.
